Those Horses

It's bad enough that I haven't had time to write more but to just lose my whole post did not make me happy.  Yes...here I go again and hopefully that won't happen.

E. and I went on an additional tour upstairs and what a grand view from above the Piazza San Marco in both directions.  What grabbed me though was those horses.  Those incredibly beautiful horses that are huge!  I just wanted to climb up on one and sit astride as I looked out. 

E. took this photo as I just couldn't capture them the way I wanted to. 

E.'s photo

So what is the story of the horses?  First of all the ones outdoors are not the originals.  Those are inside which we saw as well.  They were plunder taken after the Fourth Crusade from Constantinople upon the order from Venice's Doge, Enrico Dandolo.  He had lost an eye in a scuffle in Byzantium and was wanting some revenge.  I'll say he did.  What a prize he brought back to Venice!  Can you imagine the boat ride home with those horses?  Quite a ruckus wild time that must have been.  Apparently they had to cut the horses heads off for shipment and then restored them by adding the collars they wear now.  They were placed over the main doors to the Basilica proudly looking out.

Then Napoleon stole them in 1797 and brought them triumphantly back to Paris and placed on the Arch of Triumph in the Place du Carrousel.  It was said "Rome is no longer Rome, it is Paris!".  I guess the Pope at that time was none to pleased.  They were returned back to Venice in 1815 by the Austrians.  

Here is a view out towards the Doge's Palace.....

One with E.....

Then E.'s special effect photo of the Piazza San Marco.....

E.'s photo

A corner statute on the Doge's Palace that is haunting but beautiful....

Detail of the front of the Basilica....so much to appreciate...the glass the marble, the colors.

Moments of Magic

I'm not sure what moved me most.  Looking out from the end of the Piazza San Marco near the Palazzo Ducale or seeing the look on my daughter's face as she viewed the grand scene on the water before us.  Gondola's were bouncing up and down from the wake water of the many boats going past us back and forth.  I looked at the Gondoliers in their snappy flat top, ribbon bedecked hats and striped shirts.  The ones near us seemed quite jaunty and relaxed.  Regardless of how touristy the idea of taking a gondola ride has become you can't help but want to see the canals and water by one.  

Across the water is the tiny island that has the church of San Giorgio Maggiore on it.  The light on the facade of the church casts lovely shadows this time of day.  From where we stand it looks like the water goes right to the front doors and I wonder if they too get flooded in a very high tide.  I would like to go visit here and explore what we can as well as take photos from there looking back towards Venice.  I hope we will be able to do this on our day that we buy our 24 hour Vaporetto passes.

Back to where we are.  E. looks out and a glimmering smile is on her face.  I know I should wish that my Love is here but to be here with E. is very special to my heart.  To have this special trip with her, to explore to our heart's content.  Let us say that in ones life if you have children, that once they leave the nest, time together becomes all that more precious.  Our children have a whole life away from us and often as parents we so miss the times together that they can't really understand.  At least that is how I feel.  Being with her right then was like the best Christmas and Birthday gift all wrapped up and each day is like reopening that gift.

I haven't been this happy in awhile.  So much has transpired in the last two years with the aging of our parents.  I let the sounds wash over me, fill my eyes with the view, and this is just day one. 

Long way around

Thank goodness for Google Earth as that virtual program has helped me follow our path via our photos of how we made it to our hotel.  Looking at our path we sure took the long way around and I can honestly say we crossed a lot of little bridges. 

I know this because every bridge had steps and I was lifting or dragging my rolling bag over ever last one....you know that sound?  Clunk, clunk, clunk....I am grateful I did pack light.  I am grateful I did not do two suitcases.  I saw a few of those folks attempting to drag two bags, their shoulders and arms bearing the weight, the expression of exhaustion on their faces.  I felt bad for them because they couldn't savor the sights that they walked by.  I might have been the same way but no, I was enthralled by all I saw!

  We started in the Santa Croce neighborhood crossing the Grand Canal over into the Cannaregio neighborhood, and on into the San Marco neighborhood where we were to stay.  We followed the plentiful signs that would say Piazza San Marco that were on buildings along our walk.  We didn't really need to use a map though I had bought one before our trip.

A Campo opened up and we passed the church Santa Maria Maddalena which caught my eye because of the Masonic symbol over the tall doors.

On we walked looking forward, looking left and right, looking up all the while going deeper into Venice and the immersion taking hold of us.  I wondered if we would pass this route again or how we might find it.  E. led on and I wondered what were her thoughts.  Suddenly we found ourselves looking out into the Piazza San Marco and if I had been a pilgrim I would have fallen to my knees for having found this spot!  To our left rose St. Mark's Basilica from the narrow calle we had been on. 

We wandered out and beheld the shear beauty and enormity of this Piazza.  The history that ran under my feet, up my legs, into my heart and lungs, through my eyes, the feel of old beneath my fingers, as I imagined the pageantry that had taken place here and I did feel overwhelmed.  Though we could have stood here gazing but it was time to find our hotel.  


I had an inkling of where it was in relation to the Piazza and pulled out the map for E. to read.  The Ai Do Mori is a mere one block off the Piazza.  I did mention that we had to go up  many stairs just to get to the main reception.  A small little office with very kind young woman checked us in.  Our room was another two flights up beyond that and no, there is no elevator.  Clunk, clunk, clunk my rolling bag went. At each step I lifted my bag to the next step.  How much did my bag weigh?  I should have done kettle bell lifts before this trip to prepare for this!  E. offered to help but I declined.  I needed to pull my weight on this journey.  I was dripping with sweat by the time we got to Room #6 and opened the door after much fumbling and giggling by the two of us.  I couldn't wait to unload, take a shower and of course let hubby know we had made it safe and sound.

Our room ~ E.'s photo

View into our room ~ E.'s photo

 Only one disappointment to our room was that the view was marred by scaffolding as they were working on the exterior of the building.  Just the same it was a welcome view of the Campanile of San Marco and the Clock Tower as well as part of the top of the Basilica.  Our room had two windows to look out from but this was the view that caught my eye when looking for hotels to stay at.  E. really wanted to climb out onto the scaffolding but the mommy in me was a bit scared over that!